By the LaserPicksUK – Home Laser Engraver Reviews & Guides Team · Updated May 2026 · Independent, reader-supported

LightBurn Software Beginner's Guide UK: Set Up, Import & Burn Your First Design

LightBurn is the most popular laser-cutting and engraving software for hobbyists in the UK, and for good reason. It's intuitive enough for beginners but powerful enough that professionals rely on it daily. Whether you've just bought an xTool D1 Pro, a Sculpfun S30, or another compatible laser cutter, knowing how to use LightBurn properly transforms you from someone pressing buttons to someone making genuinely impressive work.

This guide walks you through everything you need to know to go from installation to your first successful engrave.

What LightBurn Actually Does

LightBurn isn't the laser cutter itself—it's the software that talks to your machine. You design something (or import a design), LightBurn converts it into instructions your laser understands, and then your machine executes those instructions.

The software handles the bits that sound simple but actually matter: scaling, positioning, focusing, power settings, and speed. Get any of these wrong, and you'll either waste material or end up with faint, incomplete burns. LightBurn takes the guesswork out of these settings.

Most major laser machines sold in the UK work with LightBurn. The big names—xTool, Sculpfun, Ortur, Atomstack—all support it. A few proprietary machines have their own software, but the ecosystem around LightBurn is so much larger that you'll find more tutorials, templates, and community help.

Installation and Licensing

Download LightBurn from the official website and install it. It runs on Windows, Mac, and Linux. The software isn't free, but it's worth the cost: you get a 30-day trial with full features, and the licence costs around £60. If you're serious about laser work, buy the licence. The licence is per-user and tied to your hardware key, so you only need one.

When you first open the software, it'll ask you to select your machine type. Choose the option that matches your laser cutter precisely. This matters—LightBurn uses this information to know what power range, speeds, and features your specific machine supports. If you're unsure, check your machine's manual or the manufacturer's LightBurn setup guide.

Connect your laser to your computer via USB. LightBurn should detect it automatically. If it doesn't, check that the cable is properly seated and that your machine is powered on. Some older machines might need a USB driver installed first (your machine's manual will say if this applies to you).

Getting Your First Design

You have three options: create something from scratch, import an existing design, or use a template.

Creating from scratch uses LightBurn's built-in drawing tools. These are basic—circles, rectangles, bezier curves, and text. It's useful for simple projects, but for anything detailed, you'll want to import a design instead.

Importing designs is the real strength of LightBurn. You can import SVG files (the best format), PDF, DXF, AI, and several others. SVG is ideal because it's scalable and LightBurn handles it cleanly. If you've found a design online, check that it's SVG format before downloading.

Where to find designs? Etsy has thousands of laser-cutting files, many specifically made for laser cutters. These usually cost £2–5 each. Free options include Pixabay, OpenSVG, and community forums dedicated to your specific machine.

When you import a design, LightBurn places it in your workspace. This is a virtual representation of your cutting bed. The workspace size depends on your machine—an xTool D1 Pro, for example, has a cutting area of around 405mm × 355mm. Make sure your design fits within these boundaries, or you'll only engrave part of it.

Positioning and Scaling

This is where most beginners go wrong. Your design is now on the workspace, but you need to actually position it where you want it to cut.

Use the alignment tools to centre your design or position it precisely. You can also just click and drag to move it around. Zoom in (mouse wheel or the zoom controls) to position it exactly.

Scaling is crucial: measure whatever you're engraving on before you burn. A design meant for a 100mm square won't work if your material is 80mm. Drag the corner handles to resize, or right-click and select "Scale" for precise dimensions. Hold Shift while dragging to maintain aspect ratio.

Check the material dimensions. If you're engraving wood, measure the piece. If it's leather or acrylic, measure those too. Position your design so there's a small margin around the edges—at least 3–5mm. Your laser can't engrave right to the edge of material.

Power, Speed, and Cutting Parameters

This is where most people get nervous, but it's not complicated.

Every design in LightBurn is made of layers. Each layer has its own settings: power (how strong the laser beam is) and speed (how fast the laser moves). You need to tell LightBurn what to do with each layer.

Open the "Cuts/Layers" panel on the left side of the screen. You'll see each layer listed. Right-click and select "Cut Settings" to adjust power and speed. For engraving (marking the surface), you'll use medium power and fairly fast speed—maybe 50–70% power at 150mm/s. For cutting through material, you'll use higher power and slower speed—70–100% power at 30–50mm/s, depending on material thickness.

The problem is, these numbers vary wildly depending on your material, your machine's power, and even ambient temperature. The safest approach: start conservative. Test on scrap material first. Engrave something at 50% power and 150mm/s, then 60%, then 70%. You'll quickly learn what your specific machine needs.

Write these settings down as you test. Within a few projects, you'll have a reference sheet: hardwood at 2mm needs 80% power and 40mm/s, for example. This saves hours of experimentation later.

Running Your First Burn

Focus your laser before every cut. This means adjusting the distance between the laser head and your material so the beam hits at its sharpest point. Most UK machines come with a focus tool—a small metal ring that fits under the nozzle. Loosen the head slightly, place the focus tool, and tighten until the nozzle sits snugly on it. Remove the tool, and you're focused.

Position your material in the machine, close the lid, and click the "Frame" button in LightBurn. This traces the outline of your design with the laser at minimum power, showing exactly what will be cut or engraved. Check that this outline is where you want it. If not, reposition and frame again.

Once you're happy, click "Start" to run the job. Watch the first few seconds to make sure the beam is hitting the right spot. If something's wrong, you can usually stop it and adjust.

Let the machine finish. Don't open the lid while it's running—this can damage the lens. Once it's done, remove your material and inspect. You might need to adjust power or speed for the next attempt, and that's completely normal.

LightBurn is genuinely simple once you understand the basics. You'll be comfortable with it after three or four projects. The real skill comes later—knowing how to design something that cuts cleanly, how to achieve exact colours and depths, how to optimise for speed. But those are lessons for another day.